Bearded Dragon Beginner Setup: Complete Care Guide (Tank, UVB, Diet, Temps)

Adult bearded dragons need a 40-gallon BREEDER (36" × 18" × 18") minimum. Most experts now recommend 75-120 gallons (48" or 60" long). Hatchlings can start in a 20-gallon long, but plan to upgrade by 6-8 months. Glass tanks with screen tops are standard; PVC enclosures hold heat better but cost more.

T5 HO 10-12% linear UVB is non-negotiable. Brand recommendations: Arcadia D3+ 12%, Zoo Med ReptiSun T5 HO 10.0. Replace every 12 months even if still lighting — UV output degrades before the visible light fails. AVOID: compact coil UVB bulbs (inadequate output, can cause eye damage), mercury vapor combo bulbs (inconsistent UVB), T8 bulbs (too weak).

Basking surface: 95-105°F (juveniles up to 110°F). Cool side: 75-85°F. Night drop to 65-75°F is fine if healthy. Measure basking temp with a temp gun directly on the basking surface — NOT ambient probes (they read 10-15°F lower). Use a ceramic heat emitter for nighttime supplemental heat if your home drops below 65°F.

Hatchlings (0-3 months): 80% insects, 20% greens. Juveniles (3-12 months): 60% insects, 40% greens. Sub-adults (12-18 months): 40% insects, 60% greens. Adults (18+ months): 20% insects, 80% greens. Best insects: dubia roaches (best), crickets, black soldier fly larvae. Best greens: collard, mustard, turnip greens, dandelion, endive.

Dubia roaches are the gold standard — highest protein, lowest chitin, easy to gut-load. Crickets are cheaper but noisy and smelly. Avoid: mealworms (high fat, hard chitin shell), superworms (too fatty as staple, OK as treats), waxworms (pure fat — dessert only). Gut-load insects 24 hours before feeding with vegetables and commercial gut-load powder.

Hatchlings: 3-5 times per day, as many insects as they'll eat in 10-15 minutes. Juveniles: 2-3 times daily. Sub-adults: 1-2 times daily. Adults: every other day or 3-4 times per week (prevents obesity). Offer fresh greens daily at all ages, whether they eat them or not.

Yes, but they get most hydration from vegetables and insects. Provide a shallow water dish changed daily. Dragons often don't drink from still water — many prefer misting (spray their food and body lightly). Baths 2-3 times per week in warm water (shallow, just above belly) help with hydration and shedding.

Controversial. For juveniles: reptile carpet, paper towel, or tile — NO loose substrate (impaction risk). For adults: fine-grain substrate like 40/60 play sand + organic topsoil mix is acceptable if well-hydrated. Avoid: calci-sand, crushed walnut, cedar/pine shavings — all cause impaction or toxicity.

NO. Bearded dragons are solitary and territorial. Housing two together (even same-sex females) almost always leads to injuries, stress, and one dragon dominating food and basking spots. The "my 2 dragons are best friends" stories are confirmation bias — vet emergency rooms are full of dragons injured by cagemates.

MBD (metabolic bone disease) from inadequate UVB/calcium — #1 preventable issue. Adenovirus (incurable, from bad breeders). Impaction (GI blockage from loose substrate). Parasites (pinworms, coccidia) from hatchling shipping stress. Mouth rot from dirty environment. Annual exotic vet exam + fecal exam catches most early.